Wave fluctuation with the passage of a depression
2002
Yoneta, K. (Hokkaido Univ., Sapporo (Japan)) | Meguro, T. | Kajiwara, Y. | Sakaoka, K. | Kobayashi, N.
Ocean waves were observed on board a vessel, when a medium-scale depression passed. A average maximum wind velocity of 20 m/s and maximum significant wave height of 5.3 m were recorded during the observation period. The period of observed ocean waves was determined by power spectrum analysis, and elementary wave and the period were determined by harmonic analysis. The period of the ocean waves agreed with maximum elementary wave period closely. From the time series distribution of the elementary wave, small elementary waves (with about a 4 second period and 0.1 m wave height) were always being generated, and they gradually developed into waves with a long period and the large wave height. The wave height of the maximum elementary wave during the observation period was 1.83 m, and the period was the 10.5 seconds.
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