Validated method for quality assessment of henna (Lawsonia inermis L.) leaves after postharvest blanching and its cosmetic application
2017
Jyotshna, | Gaur, Pooja | Singh, Dhananjay Kumar | Luqman, Suaib | Shanker, Karuna
Henna (Lawsonia inermis L., Family- Lythraceae) has been used for number of cosmetic purposes, including body painting, palm colouring and dyeing of hair. In spite of huge demand for cosmetic applications, no validated analytical method is available for the quality assessment of henna. Therefore, present validated method demonstrates the simultaneous quantification of eight marker compounds. Chemical markers, namely 1) gallic acid, 2) quercetin, 3) fraxetin, 4) luteolin-7-O- glucoside, 5) p-coumaric acid, 6) lawsone, 7) luteolin and 8) apigenin were chosen for the quality assessment of henna. The method was also applied to assess the effects of postharvest treatments (PHT) on the quality of henna leaves as well its derived product i.e. oil mixed paste. Both the chemical and thermal blanching treatments severely (p<0.5) changed the content of targeted secondary metabolites (1–8). The contents of fraxetin and lawsone were found to increase on deep freezing, remaining six phytochemicals reduced significantly on blanching. Luteolin-7-O- glucoside in henna was most susceptible to both salt and liquid nitrogen treatment. Additionally, the effects of mixing of oils (olive, castor oil, and mentha) on modulation of chemical markers and color intensity over palm were also evaluated. We observed a significant increase in the color intensity attributed to mixing of castor>>menthol>olive oil. The apigenin content was about 2.4 times higher in olive oil mixed henna paste than control, while, fraxetin content reduced to half. Mixing of castor oil in henna paste has produced the most intense color; while the mentha oil facilitated the persistence action when applied for palm ornamentation.
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