Improved procedures for in vitro skin irritation testing of sticky and greasy natural botanicals

Skin irritation evaluation is an important endpoint for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients required by various regulatory authorities for notification and/or import of test substances. The present study was undertaken to investigate possible protocol adaptations of the currently validated in vitro skin irritation test methods based on reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) for the testing of plant extracts and natural botanicals. Due to their specific physico-chemical properties, such as lipophilicity, sticky/buttery-like texture, waxy/creamy foam characteristics, normal washing procedures can lead to an incomplete removal of these materials and/or to mechanical damage to the tissues, resulting in an impaired prediction of the true skin irritation potential of the materials. For this reason different refined washing procedures were evaluated for their ability to ensure appropriate removal of greasy and sticky substances while not altering the normal responses of the validated RhE test method. Amongst the different procedures evaluated, the use of a SDS 0.1% PBS solution to remove the sticky and greasy test material prior to the normal washing procedures was found to be the most suitable adaptation to ensure efficient removal of greasy and sticky in-house controls without affecting the results of the negative control. The predictive capacity of the refined SDS 0.1% washing procedure, was investigated by using twelve oily and viscous compounds having known skin irritation effects supported by raw and/or peer reviewed in vivo data. The normal washing procedure resulted in 8 out of 10 correctly predicted compounds as compared to 9 out of 10 with the refined washing procedures, showing an increase in the predictive ability of the assay. The refined washing procedure allowed to correctly identify all in vivo skin irritant materials showing the same sensitivity as the normal washing procedures, and further increased the specificity of the assay from 5 to 6 correct predictions out of 7 non irritants as compared to the normal washing procedures. In addition, when exposed to non-irritant oily and viscous materials, tissues rinsed with 0.1% SDS generally showed increased viabilities accompanied by decreased variabilities as compared to the normal washing procedures. Similar results were obtained when testing typical in-house natural botanical ingredients. In conclusion, the use of a refined washing procedure making use of SDS 0.1% in PBS was found a suitable procedure to ensure efficient removal of greasy and sticky materials, leading to an increased predictive capacity and decreased variability of the tissue responses while maintaining its sensitivity and not affecting untreated tissues morphology and viability.