Chemical characterization and bioactive potential of Thymus×citriodorus (Pers.) Schreb. preparations for anti-acne applications: Antimicrobial, anti-biofilm, anti-inflammatory and safety profiles

Thymus × citriodorus (Pers.) Schreb. is an interspecific hybrid between Thymus pulegioides and Thymus vulgaris, known for its pharmacological activities as diaphoretic, deodorant, antiseptic and disinfectant, the last mostly related with its antimicrobial activity. The folk use of other extracts, as hydrolates, have also been disseminated, as regulators of oily skin with anti-acne effect.We aimed to evaluate the anti-acne potential of two Thymus x citriodorus (TC) preparations, the essential oil (EO) and the hydrolate, to be used as active ingredients for skin applications. Specifically, we intend to validate their anti-acne potential by describing their activity on acne related bacteria, bacterial virulence, anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory potential, and biocompatibility on inflammatory cells. Additionally, we aimed to report their ecotoxicity under the Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals (GHS), thus focusing not only on the consumer, but also on environmental safety assessment.Minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) against C. acnes, S. aureus and S. epidermidis was evaluated. Minimum lethal concentration (MLC) was also determined. The effect on C. acnes biofilm formation and disruption was evaluated with crystal violet staining. Anti-inflammatory activity was investigated on LPS-stimulated mouse macrophages (RAW 264.7), by studying nitric oxide (NO) production (Griess reagent) and cellular biocompatibility through MTT assay. In-vitro NO and 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging potential were also evaluated. The ecotoxicity was evaluated using Daphnia magna acute toxicity assays.EO presented direct antimicrobial activity, with visual MICs ranging from 0.06% for S. epidermidis and C. acnes to 0.125% for S. aureus. MLCs were higher than the obtained MICs. Hydrolate revealed visual MIC only for C. acnes. TC essential oil was effective in preventing biofilm formation and disrupting preformed biofilms even at sub-inhibitory concentrations. Hydrolate showed a more modest anti-biofilm effect. Regarding anti-inflammatory activity, TC hydrolate has a higher cellular biocompatibility. Still, both plant preparations were able to inhibit at least 50% of NO production at non-cytotoxic concentrations. Both EO and hydrolate have poor anti-oxidant activities. Regarding the ecotoxicity, TC essential oil was classified under acute 3 category, while the hydrolate has proved to be nontoxic, in accordance to the GHS.These results support the anti-acne value of different TC preparations for different applications. TC hydrolate by presenting higher biocompatibility, anti-inflammatory potential and the ability to modulate C. acnes virulence, can be advantageous in a product for everyday application. On the other hand, EO by presenting a marked antimicrobial, anti-biofilm and anti-inflammatory activities, still with some cytotoxicity, may be better suited for application in acute flare-ups, for short treatment periods.