Palm-based octyl dihydroxystearate for cosmetic products
2007
Chua, S.K. | Salmiah A. | Hazimah A.H. | Roila A. | Salleh A.B. | Ariff A. | Rigano, L., Malaysian Cocoa Board, Center for Cocoa Downstream Research, Lot 3, Jalan P/9B, Seksyen 13, 43650, Bandar Baru Bangi, Selangor (Malaysia)
Dihydroxystearic acid (DHSA) was used as a starting material for the production of octyl DHSA through an enzymatic route. Several experiments were conducted in order to investigate the properties of odyl DHSA when used in make-up formulations. As oils are key ingredients in all make-up formulae, preliminary trials have been done, involving the dissolution of 5% and 10% octyl DHSA respectively in oils at different polarity. The solubility and thickening properties were studied. Successively, octyl DHSA was introduced in make-up products, such as lipstick, lip-gloss, mascara, eye-liner and foundation. The concentrations used, according to the different product types, varied between 2% and 5%. Evaluations concerning the stability of the formulae, the organoleptic (appearance, odour, colour, shape retention, flow, homogeneity) characteristics, the physico-chemical parameters, the application and the sensory properties were carried out. The results show that octyl DHSA is a useful ingredient both in anhydrous (lipstick, lip-gloss) and hydrated make-up systems (emulsion mascara and foundation). Its main influences are on the flow (rheology) characteristics, skin feel, drying time, skin adhesion and lasting properties.
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