Nonlinear Ocean Waves: Simulation, Chaos and Field Data.
1997
Curry, James H.
The model of waves in shallow water that has been used describes nonlinear waves of permanent form, with two dimensional surface patterns. These are the simplest waves that are not degenerate (i.e., not restricted to 1-dimension, not restricted to infinitesimal amplitudes, etc.). The work completed generalizes this model to the simplest waves that are nonlinear and have two-dimensional wave patterns and also have nontrivial time-dependence. This generalization is conceptually important because it allows descriptions of intrinsically tune-dependent phenomena. The waves in question are typically not periodic in space or in time, and they have never been described before (in shallow water or in any other context).
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