Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties
2022
Ditte B. Hermund | Hanna Torsteinsen | Julia Vega | Félix L. Figueroa | Charlotte Jacobsen
Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FV-EE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7&minus:14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g&minus:1 dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g&minus:1 dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4&ndash:13.7 g GAE 100 g&minus:1 dw, FV-EE = 11.2&ndash:14.0 g GAE 100 g&minus:1 dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods: the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF.
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