Factors Controlling the Formation and Evolution of the Beach Zone in a Semi-Enclosed Tideless Embayment: The Case of the North Coast of the Messiniakos Gulf (Eastern Mediterranean)
2025
Serafeim E. Poulos | Stelios Petrakis | Aikaterini Karditsa | Sylvia-Vasiliki Koumpou | Vasileios Kapsimalis
This study examines the evolution of a beach formed along the coastline of a semi-enclosed, essentially tideless, embayment in the eastern Mediterranean Sea. The analysis revealed that the primary factors influencing its recent evolution are the terrestrial sediment influxes, current nearshore oceanographic conditions, and the existence of coastal constructions. The beach zone is exposed to waves approaching from the south with extreme values of height and period of 7 m and 4.3 s, respectively. Associated morphodynamic characteristics include a closure depth of 7 m, a breaking depth of 4.3 m, and a maximum run-up of 2.4 m. Since the mid-1900s, the shoreline has evolved through an accretional phase from 1960 to 1988, followed by a retreating phase from 1989 to 1997, except in the central part, where progradation has continued. The most recent period (1998–2017) has been relatively stable, though with a slight retreating trend. During storm events, changes to the beach are not uniform along-shore. Gross estimates of beach retreat due to sea level rise induced by climate change threaten the existence of the entire beach (for moderate and extreme IPCC Special Report Emissions Scenarios); however, this does not seem to be the case if riverine sediment influx continues.
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