Sensory characterization of emollients
2008
Parente, Maria Emma | Gambaro, Adriana | Ares, Gaston
Emollients are one of the most commonly used ingredients in cosmetic emulsions, being closely related to the sensory properties of cosmetics and their skin sensory performance. In the present work, the sensory properties of four commonly used emollients (cyclomethicone, dimethicone, isopropyl mirystate and octyldodecanol) and four emollients from ratites oil (emú oil, ñandú oil and two products obtained by thermal fractionation of ñandú oil - estearin and olein) were characterized by means of quantitative descriptive analysis. A panel of 12 sensory assessors evaluated the following attributes: difficulty of spreading, gloss, residue, stickiness and oiliness. Considering their sensory characteristics, the evaluated emollients were sorted into five groups. By evaluating the development of residue with time after application, emollients could be regarded as dry or protective emollients, whereas considering the development of oiliness with time after application, fatty emollients were identified. The evaluated emollients showed highly significant differences in their sensory profiles, suggesting that they might provide different sensory properties to the cosmetic emulsions in which they are incorporated. Results from the present study could be used during the development of new cosmetic products, in order to select different emollients to provide different sensory characteristics to the product or while applied on the skin.
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