In vitro Screening of Jeju Island Plants for Cosmetic Ingredients
2018
Kim, M.J., Skin Science R and D Center, Saimdang Cosmetics Co., Ltd., Republic of Korea | Jung, T.K., Skin Science R and D Center, Saimdang Cosmetics Co., Ltd., Republic of Korea | Kim, M.H., Skin Science R and D Center, Saimdang Cosmetics Co., Ltd., Republic of Korea | Yoon, K.S., Jeju National University, Jeju, Republic of Korea
To identify new active cosmetic ingredients of natural origin, we screened the biological activities of 50 different kinds of plants from Jeju Island, the southernmost island of the Korean Peninsula. In this study, plant extracts were screened for inhibitory effects on elastase, nitric oxide, and melanin production, and for free radical scavenging effects. Eight plants, Viburnum erosum Thunb., Trachelospermum asiaticum var. intermedium Nakai, Sageretia theezans Brongn., Sorbus alnifolia var. hirtella T. Lee, Staphylea bumalda DC., Pourthicea villosa var. brunnea Nak., Illicium religiosum S. et Z., and Castanopsis cuspidata var. sieboldii Nakai were potent inhibitors of elastase (over 80% inhibition at 1 mg/ mL). Elaeocarpus sylvestris var. Ellipticus (Thunb.) Hara (IC50: 13.99 μg/mL), Sapium sebiferum (L.) ROXB. (IC50: 14.27 μg/mL), and Castanopsis cuspidata var. sieboldii Nakai (IC50: 16.46 μg/mL) showed good antioxidant effects. Eurya japonica Thunb., Quercus myrsinaefolia Bl., Caesalpinia decapetala var. japonica (S. et Z.) Ohashi, Weigela subsessilis L. H. Bailey, and Crinum asiaticum var. japonicum dosedependently inhibited LPS-induced NO production on RAW 264.7 cells (at 50-200 μg/mL). Furthermore, Elaeocarpus sylvestris var. Ellipticus (Thunb.) Hara, Ilex integra Thunb., and Agastache rugosa (Fisch. et Meyer) O. Kuntze dose-dependently inhibited α-MSH stimulated melanin synthesis on B16 F10 cells (at 25-100 μg/mL). These results suggest that Jeju Island plants possess several biological activities and may be potent anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, skin-whitening, and antioxidative ingredients as functional cosmetic materials.
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