Production of melanin bleaching enzyme of fungal origin and its application in cosmetics
2007
Mohorčič, Martina | Friedrich, Jožefa | Renimel, Isabelle | André, Patrice | Mandin, Danielle | Chaumont, J.-P. (Jean-Pierre)
We screened wild fungal isolates for melanolytic activity and found thatSporotrichum pruinosum was the most promising of the very limited number of fungi that decolourised synthetic melanin. We used a submerged aerobic process to produce a skin depigmentation enzyme by this strain, and found that in the medium the presence of Mn²⁺ ions was necessary, the limitation of carbon source was beneficial, and Zn²⁺ ions were inhibitory. Cultivation in a stirred bioreactor required immobilization of mycelium and use of low stirring velocity. A partially purified enzyme was prepared and tested for depigmentation of human skin corneocytes and whole epidermis of phototypes III and V. This is the first study demonstrating the effective enzymatic degradation of the skin melanin rather than inhibition of its synthesis. This opens the possibility of using melanolytic enzymes in cosmetic skin lightening.
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