Review and Verification of Numerical Wave Models for Near Coastal Areas - Part 1: Review of Mild Slope Equation, Relevant Approximations, and Technical Details of Numerical Wave Models.
1998
Kaihatu, James M.
Ocean wave propagation is heavily affected by bathymetric variation, particularly in the nearshore areas. In this report, the theoretical basis behind the mild slope equation, which is often used for modeling wave propagation, is discussed. In particular, the theory and technical details of the models REF/DIF1, REF/DIF-S, and RCPWAVE are defined. (REF/DIF-S is an irregular wave version of REF/DIF1.) Two different modifications of the mild slope equation that simplify the modeling of wave propagation for general areas: the parabolic approximation, which is used in the model REF/DIF1 and REF/DIF-S; and the eikonal-transport equations, used in RCPWAVE are examined. The consequences of using either modification is also discussed. Incorporation of relevant physical effects (e.g., wave breaking, bottom friction, etc.) that affect wave propagation in the nearshore area is illustrated.
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