Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow Water
1991
Long, Charles E. | Oltman-Shay, Joan M.
Proper coastal engineering design relies ultimately on a complete description of sea states to which natural or man-made structures are exposed. The character of directionally distributed wind wave energy is an intuitively and demonstrably important aspect of sea state definition, yet no long-term high-resolution coastal observations exist upon which to base engineering guidance. To remedy this, a multi-year series of wind direction and swell measurements has been undertaken. This report contains a preliminary analysis of 1,046 directional observations obtained during the first year of data collection. The climate during this year was typical of this site based on longer time series observations of winds, waves, and currents at the FRF.
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