无患子籽油护肤乳液的制备及性能分析Preparation and performance of Sapindus mulorossi oil skin care emulsion

为促进无患子籽油在化妆品中的应用研究，首先以无患子籽油为原料制备纳米乳液，以粒径和Zeta电位为指标，采用单因素实验对乳液制备工艺条件进行了优化，然后在单因素实验的基础上制备无患子籽油护肤乳液，并以橄榄油护肤乳液和商品护肤乳液为对照，对其稳定性、安全性、抗氧化活性、保湿性、酪氨酸酶抑制活性及紫外吸收效果进行了评价。结果表明：无患子籽油纳米乳液的最佳制备工艺条件为复合乳化剂（吐温-60与Span A83体积比3∶ 1）添加量8%、助乳化剂添加量6%、无患子籽油添加量2%或4%、乳化温度70 ℃、剪切速度12 000 r/min；3种护肤乳液RY-1（无患子籽油添加量2%）、RY-2（无患子籽油添加量4%）、RY-3（橄榄油添加量2%）的稳定性、安全性均较好；RY-1、RY-2、RY-3清除DPPH·的EC50分别为61.5、55.7、58.1 μg/mL，清除ABTS+·的EC50分别为58.3、50.1、53.5 μg/mL，清除·OH的EC50分别为59.7、30.2、59.9 μg/mL，清除O2-·的EC50分别为59.6、41.8、57.3 μg/mL，对酪氨酸酶活性抑制的EC50分别为147.5、118.6、140.2 μg/mL；在相对湿度43%、81%环境下，4种护肤乳液保湿率大小顺序均为RY-2＞商品乳液＞RY-3＞RY-1；无患子籽油护肤乳液具有一定的紫外吸收能力。综上，RY-2配方优于RY-1和RY-3，无患子籽油护肤乳液安全无刺激性，且具有一定抗氧化活性，有良好的应用前景。In order to promote the application research of Sapindus mulorossi oil in cosmetics, nanoemulsion was prepared with Sapindus mulorossi oil as raw material, and with particle size and Zeta potential as indicators, the preparation process conditions of nanoemulsion were optimized by single factor experiment. Then, the Sapindus mulorossi oil skin care emulsion was prepared based on the single factor experiment. The stability, safety, antioxidant activity, moisturizing properties, tyrosinase inhibitory activity and UV absorption effect of the skin care emulsion were evaluated with olive oil skin care emulsion and commercial skin care emulsion as control. The results showed that the optimal conditions for preparing nanoemulsion of Sapindus mulorossi oil were obtained as follows: dosage of compound emulsifier (volume ratio of Tween-60 to Span A83 3∶ 1)8%, dosage of co-emulsifier 6%, dosage of Sapindus mulorossi oil 2% or 4%, emulsification temperature 70 ℃ and shear rate 12 000 r/min. The stability and safety of three skin care emulsions RY-1( dosage of Sapindus mulorossi oil 2%)、RY-2（dosage of Sapindus mulorossi oil 4%) and RY-3(dosage of olive oil 2%) were good. The EC50 of the three emulsions for scavenging DPPH· was 61.5, 55.7 μg/mL and 581 μg/mL, the EC50 for scavenging ABTS+ ·was 58.3,50.1 μg/mL and 53.5 μg/mL, the EC50 for scavenging ·OH was 59.7, 30.2 μg/mL and 59.9 μg/mL, the EC50 for scavenging O2- ·was 59.6, 41.8 μg/mL and 57.3 μg/mL,the EC50 for inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase was 147.5, 118.6 μg/mL and 140.2 μg/mL, respectively. At RH 43% and 81%, the order of moisturization rate of the 4 skin care emulsions both were RY-2 ＞ commercial skin care emulsion ＞ RY-3 ＞ RY-1. The Sapindus mulorossi oil skin care emulsion had certain UV absorption capacity. In conclusion, the formula of RY-2 is better than RY-1 and RY-3. The Sapindus mulorossi oil skin care emulsion is safe, non-irritating, and has certain antioxidant activity, which has good application prospects.