Wave Transformation Over a Generalized Beach. Volume 1. Main Text and Appendix A
1991
Briggs, Michael J. | Smith, Jane M. | Green, Debra R.
A three dimensional, physical model study of the effects of wave directionality on wave transformation in the nearshore region was recently completed in the directional spectral wave basin. The model consisted of a 1:30 slope beach with plane-parallel contours, similar to the Torrey Pines Beach in southern California. Irregular waves, typical of unimodal and bimodal unidirectional and directional spectra, were created and tested. An array of 20 capacitance wave gages was used to measure surface wave elevations. This array consisted of offshore and nearshore, high-resolution linear arrays to quantify directional distributions and a cross-shore gage array along the center line to study wave transformation. Results are compared with two dimensional flume test data of similar unidirectional waves and will be used to improve several existing numerical models. The goal of this research is to provide more realistic estimates of nearshore conditions by incorporating the effects of directional distributions in numerical models.
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