Wind Input, Surface Dissipation and Directional Properties in Shoaling Waves
1998
Graber, Hans C | Donelan, Mark A | Drennan, William M
The long-term goal of this research is to improve our understanding of the physics and interactions which govern the spatial and temporal evolution of surface waves in finite depth water. The specific objectives of this project are as follows: (1) to measure the direct wind forcing of waves as they advance into shallow water, (2) to measure the evolution of the wavenumber spectrum as the waves shoal, (3) to estimate the kinetic energy dissipation in the surface waters, (4) to determine the dependence of the energy and momentum input into shoaling waves on the wavenumber spectrum and the wind, (5) to determine the dependence of wave dissipation on the wavenumber spectrum and the rate of shoaling, and (6) to determine the directional response of the wavenumber spectrum on surface current shears and variable bottom bathymetry.
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